The Czech Republic has just celebrated the twentieth anniversary of the withdrawal of the Red Army, which took place in the summer of 1991. But, it enough just look around, to perceive that this Country is experiencing a new Russian invasion. In those days, there were men in uniform to keep an eye on Czech loyalty to strict Soviet orthodox rules. Nowadays, they are made up of business people, families, artists, many young people, including university students. All of them view the Czech Republic as one of the most convenient destinations to reach the West.
Official figures say that there are 30.000 Russian residents in this country, but everything suggests that the actual number is really much higher. Prague and its surroundings are among the most appreciated destinations for Russian tourists, and also this aspect, contributes to the idea of multitude.
Most Czechs, look at this new invasion with suspicion, distrust and slight animosity, which is manifested silently, by means of suspicious glances and derogatory remarks. They often call them “rusaci” a word that clearly has a negative connotation and that has been in use since August 1968, when the Red Star tanks put an end to the Prague Spring.
When historical reasons and the then traumatic relations with the Soviet Bear are not enough to explain this antipathy, other reasons are brought forward, even complex phonetic ones: “To us, (Czech people), even the simple word “rusove (Russian)” has an aggressive and somewhat annoying sound”, grumbled Martina, a forty year old shop assistant in a supermarket in the centre of Prague. She has just finished serving a couple of Muscovites who have just filled up their bags with their favourite souvenirs, bought in a number of grocery shops: bottles of Becherovka and of Karlovy Vary wafers. “I can’t understand the displayed arrogance when they speak to me in their native language. They seem to think that, due to the old regime, everyone here should understand them“, adds the shop assistant angrily, implying that she has no intention of reviving the Russian she studied at school in the 1980s.
Unreciprocated aversion
Statistics show that the Russians and Russian speakers generally, are among the foreigners who are less appreciated in the Czech Republic. Although many years have passed, there are many who still remember that August night in 1968 with the Russian warplanes roaring overhead on their way to Prague Ruzyne, the tanks and heavy guns pointing towards the windows. It is like that, especially for those whose childhood coincided with the 70s and 80s, and the communist winter of normalization. Feeding this antipathy is also the widespread belief that, even today, Russia is not a democratic country; therefore, this fact could pose a threat to the Czech Republic’s national security.
Instead, the Russians consider the 1968 historical events as a closed chapter. Nor do they attribute any responsibility to the Soviet regime, to which many of them see no connection.
Czech aversion is very often unperceived – a survey found that only 20% experienced some sort of discrimination against them within the Czech Republic – or, rather, when they did, they usually responded with careless indifference. All too aware of coming from an empire that spans over nine time zones, it is obviously not these trifle things that can affect their passion for the little Czech Republic.
In Prague and its surroundings, they really give an impression of feeling at ease, a little bit like being at home, or at least in the immediate vicinity of their home. Perhaps, it is this very particular attitude that the Czechs find harder to bear.
The boom of visitors from Russia
Among foreign tourists to the Czech Republic, the Russians are the most numerous after the Germans. Just in the first six months of this year, there were nearly 300 thousand of them, with a record increase of 47%. This country continues to be a popular destination for them, exactly as was the case at the time of the USSR when – being able to go to Prague or Karlovy Vary – was a privilege granted only to very few people.
According to statistics, Russian tourists hold a few significant records: they are the holidaymakers who remain longer, on average, nearly six nights. They also spend more, around 3,800 crowns per day (compared to an average of 2,500 crowns by other visitors). Among all non-EU foreign tourists, who have the opportunity of a VAT rebate on purchases, the Russians are, by far, at number one position (with an amount of 43% of total VAT being paid back to foreign visitors by the Czech Republic. They are the kind of people who buy without giving the impression that they are weighing up the money. And that is their way of being typical, because they love to show they are wealthy and that they can afford it.
The very wealthy feel at home in Prague, in the boutiques of Pařížská and Na Příkopě, with a penchant for the most exclusive brands in fashion and jewellery. The assistants of these shops do not get annoyed if they hear Russian being spoken, but rather, they tend to be theatrical, full of smiles, admiration and good manners. “They are definitely our best customers,” affirms the manager of the elegant single-brand store.
Even when they do not belong to the category of the rich, the Russian propensity to spend does not go unnoticed. It is enough to see them when they are crowding the small crystal and assorted kitsch shops of Wenceslas Square. In the typical pubs, they casually glance at the menu and then order large quantities and all sorts of dishes. Similarly, when giving tips, they are keen to demonstrate how generous they are. And even in this case, the Czech waiters do not disdain.
Home, sweet home in the Czech Republic
In addition to this invasion of tourists, there are thousands of Russians who come to settle down in the Czech Republic, so much so, that they have become one of the first foreign minorities.
“They expatriate to look for a better standard of living, because they believe that Russia is not stable enough from a political and social point of view – not affording sufficient prospects to their children. Businessmen in particular, want a safer environment for their investments”, Natasha explains – from an office in central Prague. She works in a specialized agency to assist Russians who have to move to the Czech Republic (e.g. if searching for a house, to obtain documents, residence permits, or if they have to purchase a car, open a bank account and so on).
“The Czech Republic is a country that offers – especially in Prague and in the main centres – high living standards, at a significantly lower cost, compared to other western cities. Language barriers are minimal, because for a Russian it is easy to learn the Czech language”.
In the early 1990s it was mostly the Russian billionaires who hit the news, also thanks to their wealth – sometimes of obscure origin – they bought hotel businesses, villas and buildings in Karlovy Vary. In the last few years, the trend has been that of middle classes, entrepreneurs, managers, and a host of young students. Their goal is nearly always the city of Prague. In the capital, they tend to concentrate in the outskirts district of Prague 5, Stodůlky, where entire buildings have been inhabited by Russian families.
The attractive factor for young people is often the opportunity to study in one of the universities of this country. In addition to the category of children from rich families – who nearly always join one of the various “private universities” – the number of people who attend public universities is very high. In just a few months, in not more than a year, they are able to reach a sufficient knowledge of Czech and, therefore, may enrol and attend courses free of charge.
They do business and, above all, they buy houses
Awareness of this current Russian presence in the Czech Republic comes, above all, from the market. We have already mentioned the Tourism industry, but another special sector worth mentioning is real estate. “At present, they are among the best investors. And thank goodness they are here, otherwise the crisis would really be unsustainable”, explains, in no uncertain terms, an Italian entrepreneur, who prefers not to be mentioned, but who has been operating in the Czech building sector for many years.
According to market research, several thousand Russians buy a home in the Czech Republic every year, which amounts to at least 7% of Russian investment in the foreign building sector. The wealthiest people aim at the most exclusive addresses in Prague. The capital and Karlovy Vary are usually the favourite cities, but many are also those who buy apartments and villas in resorts, such as Mariánské Lázně, Teplice, but also Brno, České Budějovice and Plzeň. Appreciated are also the holiday resorts, like the Bohemian Forest, the Giant Mountains, or the lakes.
The reasons for these investments are extremely varied: the opportunity of having your own home to live in, the desire for a second home, where, perhaps, one can retire to. Then there are those who, in this way, can obtain more easily a visa to Europe and the Schengen area. Or even simply, do it as an investment.
“From my experience, they are customers of unimpeachable honesty. Perhaps it is also true that some might operate in obscure activities, but this is not a reason to tarnish the reputation of all”, states the Italian property developer, showing that he does not share the prejudice that is often directed towards a small number of Russian investors. “Indeed, it is quite common to meet educated people who have studied at a high-ranking university. And in the industrial sectors in which they operate – particularly in the petrochemical sector, heavy machinery, energy and financial market – they prove to have high managerial skills, with a great determination to work. They are really capable and clever people”.
By Giovanni Usai