At the end of November, Czech Republic newspapers released the news – not without emphasis – of the publication of Pavel Maurer’s Grand Restaurant, a yearly release, well into its 16th edition and considered the most authoritative review on top quality restaurants in this country. The most striking aspect, when reading through the list of the top ten restaurants – is the absence of Italian restaurants and chefs. In all these years, it is the first time that this has happened. This leads to the question: how is it possible tat in a country, where Italian culinary traditions seem to boast so many enthusiasts that not even one Italian restaurant was able to impress the Grand Restaurant jury?
A first examination might even induce us to doubt as to the reliability of this restaurant guide. However, besides the hype that has accompanied the release of the guide, the Grand Restaurant has also gained its reputation on a series of undisputable facts and figures, to which we cannot remain indifferent. Founded by Pavel Maurer over 16 years ago, the Grand Restaurant, has taken into account well over 705 restaurants this year – through personal and independent assessments by 457 jurors, made up of people who paid the bill with their own money – and who later then sent their ratings either by mail, internet or sms. All jurors do not work in this sector, but are made up of ordinary citizens from all walks of life and all of them fond of good food and cosy restaurants. It is they, on their own initiative, in disguise and at their own expense, who have rated the single places they went to. The final decision is based on a statistical average of all these assessments, which this year alone, has reached seven thousand.
Then, why is it that in the Czech Republic there are no traces of Italy in the Olympus of top quality restaurants? Is this cuisine actually losing appeal, or are there other factors involved that do not actually affect the prestige of Italian gastronomy in this country?
Here is the answer of Pavel Maurer, the inventor and author of the Guide. “Perhaps it is because, in the Czech Republic, it is rare to find those typical simple, domestic Italian trattorias, which offer homemade pasta, fresh ingredients and where a lesser choice in the menu, may actually denote greater authenticity. Simplicity at low prices. If you look at the Top 20 list, you may actually find excellent restaurants, such as Aromi, La Finestra and the Osteria da Clara. These are top class restaurants, but are expensive or, from a gastronomic point of view, rather too sophisticated for our country … “According to Maurer, this is also due to prices. The Czechs look for quality at a low price. It is inevitable then to listen to the opinion of Lucque Richard, a chef from the Marche region – a recognized expert and owner of two of the most popular restaurants in Prague: La Finestra and Aromi (in 13th and 15th position respectively in the overall Grand Restaurant classification). “La Finestra in Cucina” ranked 4th in the Grand Restaurant classification, reserved for experts. Needless to say, two restaurants that are always full on a daily basis and which have a prestigious clientele that few other restaurants can boast of.
“After the Michelin Red Book – Lucque declared – Maurer’s restaurant guide is rated as one of the most important and respected reference guides for the Czech Republic. The rating for my restaurants was not bad, considering that the jury assessed more than 700 restaurants”. Lucque pointed out, though, that: “All guides and assessments are well received, because I think it is right to allow customers to express their opinions and make assessments. Being rated among the top ten may be very rewarding, but my major aim is to fill my restaurants with happy and satisfied customers, every single night “.
As for Czech people’s general perception today of Italian cuisine, Lucque’s opinion is clear: “Due to the fact that Czech customers are becoming ever more demanding, restaurateurs are obliged to improve service standards all the time. To achieve this, you clearly have to be very professional. For years, the Czech Republic has not attracted specialists, due to low salaries and a clientele that was not yet ready to accept a more elaborated cuisine. We are now paying the consequences of all that. There are restaurants which close down because they are not able to keep up with customer trends and new restaurants are not opening up around here, because of today’s economic uncertainty and the investments risks involved – and who prefer other business markets with higher standards of living, such as in London or other large cities”.
A viewpoint that is confirmed by Blanka Turturro, president of the Slow Food Association in the Czech Republic: “Perhaps this is also proof of why restaurants here seem to appear and disappear so quickly, that there is not enough time for us to be captivated and become loyal customers”.
By analysing the results of this classification, it seems that in the Czech Republic, the great Italian cuisine has remained orphan of Andrea Accordi, the master chef, thanks to whom Prague achieved the honour of being the first city – of the former Soviet pact – to receive a Michelin star. Accordi, in fact, moved from Prague to St. Petersburg just a few months ago.
Another important factor that probably influenced the Grand Restaurant assessment is a certain nationalistic trait of this guide. To confirm this, is Maurer himself, who does not hide the fact that the purpose of his guidebook is also to promote those food dishes that respect local gastronomic traditions, also because (in recent years in the Czech Republic) a rediscovery and greater appreciation of national recipes is taking place, after over sixty years of culinary deterioration.
It is no coincidence then, if in the Grand Restaurant assessment, we find U Zlaté Studně from Mala Strana in first place, with its beautiful terrace views over the city of Prague and with an international menu – where there are also some of the most typical Czech cuisine dishes, such as Prague ham and svíčková. For the record, a taste menu made up of seven courses including wine. U Zlaté Studně charges 3,300 crowns (almost 130 Euros). A price that, objectively speaking, not everybody can afford, but which raises the question: if at the Zlaté Studne, the svickova – the typical fillet of beef, with cream sauce and cranberries costs 720 crowns (nearly 30 Euros) – why then should a fish dish, in a good Italian restaurant cost very little money?
To conclude this brief inquiry, let’s give the word to Zdenek Pohlreich, the most famous Czech chef, also thanks to a television program that turned him into a celebrity. In his opinion, the absence of Italian restaurants in the Grand Restaurant Top 10 list is not so surprising. “It is simply the result of an inquiry, which does not at all affect the prestige of your cuisine. The most famous Italian restaurants do not lose any ranking at all; it is enough to see the customers they have. Of course, I am referring to real Italian gastronomy and not to the many amateur fakes that achieve some very embarrassing results – because these imitations simply and inevitably deform the reputation that Italian gastronomy has gained with Czech public opinion.”
This is also confirmed by Maurer: “I believe that the authentic Italian gastronomy will never lose its leading position, anywhere in the world. It is excellent and immortal. But in our country it only offers two extremes: either at luxury or very poor levels, as sometimes is the case, with embarrassing pizzas topped with ketchup, or with pasta topped with sauce that an Italian would never dare to eat”.
By Yveta Kasalická