“Olomouc the loyal town: when Moravia was a Habsburg stronghold”

“A romantic walk in the ancient Přemyslid capital”

When you think of Olomouc, the loyal town, it brings to mind the Counter-Reformation period. Yes, because, of all the Habsburg towns, Olomouc was (and to some extent still is) the town that – more than any other – exudes of seventeen-century reminiscences. This is not only true for its Baroque churches and palaces, or the ubiquitous fountains (six of them, in fact, and the most beautiful dedicated to classical Roman symbols: Hercules, Caesar, Mercury, Jupiter, Neptune, Triton), of the endless Horny Namesty where stands the tall fascinating Trinity Column – which is now recognized as a Unesco heritage. Bernini would have loved the masterpieces of this forgotten historical center, lying next to the green parks that surround it on each side, to its churches and the university, renowned for its classical studies.

The University wanted (need we remind ourselves?) by the Jesuit Fathers in 1573, and still one of the largest in Central Europe. Let’s face it; Olomouc – in its own way and without disclosing it – still feels it is the capital of Central Europe, after being the heart of Moravia for over six centuries, a proud capital of the Přemyslid dynasty, a stronghold of classical civilization, which figuratively portrays the victory of Catholicism over the Protestant “hordes”.

If the name is a consequence of things, as the Latin sages used to caution, “luliomontium” owes its name to an ancient Roman fort and – according to legend – it is believed to have been founded by Julius Caesar. A distant echo of the ancient Roman world that is also represented in the town banner. A rather secluded capital, perhaps, but still a town that for centuries lived in a sort of Olympus. It was the soldiers of the Swedish King Carlo Gustavo who occupied and ravaged it in 1640: a date which probably marks the beginning of a partial decline. Of course, the underlying competition with Brno has actually faded since then. But without making it too evident: from an aristocratic point of view, Olomouc has shown to be able to maintain its standing as a “peaceful retreat” of the Habsburg family.

It is true; Brno received the honour of being the new Moravian capital of wine and castles. It witnessed the surge and turmoil of Habsburghian history: the defeat of Austerlitz, the harshness of the Spielberg, the devastating 1848 revolution that threatened to engulf the whole empire. While Olomouc, the conservative town, remained for a long time a town of peace. And it is, perhaps, for this reason that you cannot ignore the beautiful “Alamòc” town – as the Hungarians still call it today – if you want to understand a little of the history of the Austrian dynasty. Fortified by Maria Theresa of Habsburg, pointlessly besieged by the Prussians in 1758, Olomouc was above all the place of the abdication of Emperor Ferdinand I in ‘”annus horribilis” 1848.

If history can sometimes be ruthless, it may also grant unexpected successes: on 2nd December of the same year, in the Cathedral of St. Wenceslas, the historical coronation of Francesco Giuseppe took place. He was destined to rule until 1917: just 68 years!
In 1850, in Olomouc, a decisive diplomatic conference between the Habsburgs and the German princes took place. The two-headed eagle seemed to have a special appreciation for this nest: not too far from Vienna, Iuliomontium remained a junction point on the road to Silesia and Cracow. Indeed, thanks to its humble elegance, the town became the favorite place of Prince Massimiliano, younger brother of Francesco Giuseppe. The future Emperor of Mexico began spending his long summer holidays there. Discretion as a form of custom: and here it was, transformed into a perfect “retreat” of the most famous European court for its privacy and discretion. But, while strengthening links with the graceful town of Salzburg, Olomouc did not forgot at times to use that peculiarly Moravian wit. In 1883, along with the other visitors, a bizarre Kapellmeister arrived at the town theater: it was none other than Gustav Mahler. The poor Gustav, who had not yet reached the magnificence of great music, became the object of irony in the local papers and was able to endure it only for about three months.
Thus, a town of culture, at times with aesthetic traits: grown among churches, universities, theaters and historical buildings of that Central-European nobility that in established solid roots in Moravia: Liechtenstein, Edelmann, Windisch-Graetz, and many others. Still today, the largest existing organ in the Czech Republic with 2,311 pipes is housed here: in the church of Sant Moric. A Baroque masterpiece and in some ways also a Biedermeier, that at times is admired by cultured tourists. Olomouc has also remained a somewhat affected and precious town for the industrious and diligent Czech students, who come here to perfect their classical studies: there are almost twenty thousand of them out of a population of just over 100 thousand inhabitants, while the university has and continues to produce outstanding researchers and scholars.

To really enjoy the elegant Olomouc town, then, the ideal thing is to go there in May: the Moravian gardens and girls are in full bloom; it is lovely to stroll through the fin de siècle parks and villa Primavesi, while they are once more celebrating the well known “Flower Festival”.

By Ernesto Massimetti